Machhakhola to Jagat
The early breakfast had worked out nicely for us on the previous day—we'd been first to breakfast and first on the road—so we ate at 6:30am again. The bill from the lodge in Macchu Khola came to 3,800 rupees for the three of us.
We set off from Machhakhola at 7:30am. I thought it was a little late as I was again worried about the heat and sunshine. Luckily, we travelled for some time along the river that had carved out a deep valley through the hills. The sun remained off our heads until nearly 10:30am and I was able to cover a great deal of ground before overheating.
Again today, with the sun shining down on us, I found the heat to be too much. By later in the afternoon, when climbing a series of steep steps, I paused under a tree and Travis took my sleeping bag off my pack and placed it on his. This relief of extra kilos made a big difference. It felt as though I was able to move again, while the heat and my tiredness had me wishing to stop every few meters.
Jagat seems lovely. Upon arrival, you turn the corner of a cliff side and come down onto what can only be described as a paved roadway: large flat sones lead down a few steps and through an archway of sweet climbing flowers that are all in bloom.
Do laundry when you can, as soon as you can. Bring less, wash more. Use safety pins to hang your laundry from any place you can, including to your pack.
Take the time to listen to your guide, even if you have your own plans for each day. Kazi knew precisely how long it would take us each day by judging our abilities and needs.
Have I mentioned?: Pack light!